New Pocket Pussy!
-Superior pocket pussy design
-Somewhat harsh. Almost certainly only works for circumcised men.
-Still a high quality product, usable daily.
-Limited life span (approx. 1 month)
Warning: Some may last a week or two, some may last several months. This is why they are so cheap. With that being said, most of them I’ve made last a month or more (even with heavy use.)
-Rinse out with water. If a more thorough clean is desired, use soap and water.
-Do NOT turn inside out/invert. It WILL break.
-Use with lube.
How it’s Made
STEP 1: Plastic molds are designed to cast silicone. These molds are designed in software such as Autodesk Fusion, and then they are sliced in a 3D print software such as Cura.
LEFT: Autodesk Fusion observing the 3D file of the first mold piece. This mold piece was original designed in Autodesk Inventor. Both programs are quite easy to use for sculpting geometric shapes, and preparing them for 3D printing.
LEFT: The Creality Ender 6. While this printer has a variety of subtle problems, it’s quite cheap and also self-levels, which makes it easier to use than the Creality Ender 3.
LEFT: Skin cast 00-05 silicone, bought from Fox and Superfine. While the silicone is much more fragile than other silicones, it is extremely soft. But more crucially, it grips in a unique way, superior to other silicones.
LEFT: Once the mold pieces are printed out and the silicone procured, the pieces are ready.
LEFT: The silicone being poured into the plastic mold. It must be poured relatively quickly, as it is only liquid for a short amount of time.
RIGHT: The second mold pieces displayed in the 3D print slicer program known as Cura. Here it takes the 3D file and converts it a format readable by the 3D printer, with a variety of options. For our purposes, the default options are largely acceptable.
STEP 2: The Mold pieces are 3D printed, out of PLA plastic. Each one takes several hours to produce, and they are printed with a simple 3D printer, a Creality Ender 6.
RIGHT: One of the mold pieces being printed. For whatever reason, the PEI sheet, which is the yellow sheet on the build plate, doesn’t work particularly well for PLA plastic, so I need to use a glue stick to help it adhere. The PEI worked wonders when I was using the printer to print objects made out of ABS plastic.
STEP 3: Preparing the Silicone. The actual product itself is made out of a special silicone, with both extreme softness, as well as the ability to grip correctly.
RIGHT: I’ve experimented with countless other silicones and silicone mixes, many have been soft enough, but have generally been too harsh on the penis, or otherwise simply don’t function as well. A great example being the Smooth On 00-20 mixed with silicone thinner. While much more durable, the end product is significantly inferior.
STEP 4: Preparing the mold for the silicone.
RIGHT: Hot glue is used to affix the mold pieces together and prevent silicone from leaking out. The trick here is to apply the hot glue while the glue gun is barely heated to temperature.
STEP 5: Pouring the silicone components, and then mixing them together.
LEFT: Part A and part B of the silicone are combined together in equal parts.
RIGHT: The two parts are then mixed together thoroughly.
STEP 6: Pouring the prepared silicone into the plastic mold.
RIGHT: The silicone will cure in about an hour. Once it has fully cured, it is ready to be removed from the mold.
